About Creating Portraits

Props should be kept to a minimum. Allowable is anything which will support the mood and which will not detract from the main subject. A high key portrait can be enhanced with a white wicker chair, a loose white flower arrangement out of focus in the background or a high-keyed landscape judiciously placed off center, blending with the other background tones. A large, dark sculptured bowl of red apples, a black poodle, or a dark-toned piece of furniture in the background would contrast too sharply with the generally light toned subject and background. Attention diverted to these items due to their strong intrusion in the composition is lost to the main subject and detracts from the ambiance.

Attention should be paid to the lines created by the subject and other components in the composition. Lines leading strongly out of the picture should be avoided. Rather use curves to bring the eye back to the main subject. Moveable items in the composition can be place to complete gap in a leading line so as to facilitate the eye in its movement around the work. Invisible paths of light can be created with the use of similar colors, a repeated pattern or item, or the play of light and shadow along an edge. Where possible choose components with care, preferring meaningful items which play a part in the life of the subject, rather than an object chosen solely for its shape and color. For instance, if the subject is a potter, choose an attractive urn instead of, say, an antique doll which has no place in the subject’s interests.

The light that falls on the subject can be used to support the mood. Natural window light suggests an old master genre and the sharp golden rays of a small source of light created the highlights necessary for a mood with a positive spin. Any available light can create a beautiful portrait if the direction and ration of light to dark is controlled. Reflectors add light to a dark, shadowed area, scrims or shades can tone down a too-strong source. The direction or the main source of light should enhance the features by sending light into the eyes, outlining the jaw and cheek, and finding the proper areas to highlight. Additional highlights are supplied with back or side-back rays of light, as long as their effect does not invent unwanted facial highlights or block up needed detail. Pure rim lighting is fairly safe if used with care.

About Under Water Digital Camera

It is the best way to capture underwater scenery, corals, fish schools, and anything that catches your eye that you wish to preserve. With an underwater digital camera you can share that special moment forever. You can shoot until you run out of air instead of film. Printing or publishing the pictures on the Internet is very simple, as you need to just connect the camera to a computer and transfer the image files.

Digital underwater cameras allow you to compose the image on the LCD monitor and with a better depth technology, focusing is very easy. Different varieties are available to suit every need. The depth at which the cameras can be used is important. Economical ones can be used up to 5 meters while professional ones can be used at depths of 150 meters or more. Other important factors are: the image resolution, memory, number of pictures you can store, exposure, type of lens, zoom features and many more.

Shooting on land and underwater is different however. At greater depths, the available light becomes faint, diffused and is refracted. Light sources like built-in and external flash allow you to take pictures in faint light. These cameras can be operated in 3 modes – land, sea and external flash mode, which helps take pictures in any under water conditions.

By using external flash you can remove problems like the ‘white snow effect’ in which light reflects off planktons and sand to create a white fog. It takes some time to master underwater digital photography but since there is no film, you can practice as much as you need. These cameras also have the light balance feature that provides colors, which are better recognized by the human eye. It is possible to pack a digital camera in special, waterproof packs and shoot but this should be done only in case of an emergency.

Info of High Key Photography

White curtains blowing in the breeze, white birches tufted with cotton snow, or a feather storm of a pillow fight are qualifiers for a high key photo. The center of interest benefits from a darker tone, contrasting with the light tones of the surrounding environment and bringing the eye to the action. Subtle shades of white and gray enhance the colors or darker tones of the main subject.

Often, a white vignetting filter can be used judiciously, blending the portion of the subject with the background. To make a vignetting filter, cut a four inch square from some colorless, pliable, and translucent material. In the center cut a small (one half by three quarter inch) hole with a nail scissors. Place the vignetter in about one half inch in front of the lens. Extra light may be aimed at the vignetter for a whiter effect. Vignetting can also be achieved with the computer. In your photo editor, choose the airbrush set at 300 pixels wide and 50{5e2245cd7e7f31cd5906d88f7bc3ac38a4e4faa2d44a054647ecf1b1176b530c} strength. Pass the brush repeatedly around the edges of the image, creating the fade out effect. When making the original exposure set the camera to overexpose the subject one f stop. The reason for this is that the camera light sensor will try to expose whites as light gray, underexposing the image.

In printing, care should be taken to insure a proper ratio of white, near white and deeper tones. If the photo is printed too dark, the high key effect is lost, and if printed too light, no detail will be discernible in the near-white tones. For a water color effect, leave lots of room around the edges (white) and mat carefully using white, black, or delicate pastel colors. A water color filter will further enhance the high key effect. If you have children, make a list of the white clothes available for a magical white on white shoot. They’ll all come out like angels.

Use Old Snapshots

  • Assess your collection of pictures. Do you have several dozen of your spouse or significant other? Your parents? Your children? Grandparents? A friend? A beloved pet? Decide which person would like to receive these pictures and divide them into groups accordingly.
  • Buy a picture frame with glass (either 5×7 or 8×10) for each collage you are going to make. Department stores sometimes have sales on picture frames, and you can often purchase a suitable frame for $5 or less.
  • Cut a sheet of paper (use cardstock, 24# paper or light cardboard) to match the size of the opening on the picture frame.
  • Cut out the background of the pictures, leaving just the people (or pets). Cut out enough pictures to cover the sheet of paper.
  • Arrange the cut-out pictures on the paper. Mix and match and experiment. Try placing the pictures at different angles.
  • After you have an idea of how you would like to arrange the pictures, glue them to the paper. (Check the label to make sure that you can use the glue with photographs.) Cover the entire sheet of paper with pictures.
  • When the glue is dry, insert the paper into the frame.